English French German Spain Italian Dutch Russian Portuguese Japanese Korean Arabic Chinese Simplified

Showing posts with label mountain. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mountain. Show all posts

Veronica Mountain Ice Climbing

Posted: by EFREN LOPEZ in Labels: ,
0

Veronica mountain Apu wacaywillca is located  north west of Cusco city, is the highest mountain into Urbamba range, its summit reach 5911m/19393 ft located at coordinates 13 ° 9'52 .49 "S 72 ° 19'34 .11" O, considered a tropical mountain because is located in the northwest corner of Urubamba mountain range, a natural border that divides the Andean region of the jungle.

The last week of May I participated of a mountaineering expedition to reach the summit of Veronica mountain, by the south east route. thanks to Nate Heald invitation  and Sky High Expeditions. Among objectives of expedition were to reach mountain summit with the first woman and the first Brazilian mountaineer, expedition was planned for 4 days with 8 people including experienced mountaineers and guides.

The first day expedition early in the morning we headed north to Malaga pass over 4300 m, once there we got ready and the team began the approach walking west about 4 hrs to base camp over 4600 mtrs there we set camp and took the rest of the day to acclimatize and rest.

The Second day in the morning we continued towards the advanced camp over 4900 m 1 hour walk, but when we reached it and set tents, 4 people of the expedition did not feel good because altitude so they decided to return to base camp. e continued, it took a couple of hours more to set a rope at the start of the route then we returned to the advanced camp.
 with only 4 of us, we decided to continue.  Nate leaders of expedition, Waldemar a renowned Brazilian mountaineer, me and Macario. we sleep the rest of the night and left the advanced camp at 12 30 pm in total darkness. Definitely this is a technical mountain so we climbed to alpine style because the speed and the time it takes to reach the top and return.
Third day at dawn climbing continued by a mixed part (rock and ice) of approx 40 ms then a long gutter of 50 degree tilt and 300 m  direct to south ridge, about 5 am,  on the the ridge the sun rose, the average slope of walls varies between about 65 and 75 degrees with some technical steps on crevasses covered with soft snow in the last 3 hours of climbing.

May 29, 2014 at 8 30 am, after 8 hours climbing we reached the top of the Veronica mountain Apu Wacaywilca the highest mountain of Urubamba range, an spectacular scenery of the mountain ranges that surround this peak as Vilcanota Urumanba and vilcabamba ranges, an amazing landscape. After rest 1 hour on the summit we went back descending by same ridge with  loose snow due to sun, which exposed the crevasses a little more then we unclimbed the 300 m gutter and rappel the mix part we return to advanced camp about 3 30 pm and decided to descend to base camp on the same day.

the fourth day after breakfast our team got ready and walked about 3 hours return to Tastayoc for take the  transportation back to Cusco.
Important to note that the best months to climb Veronica mountain are May, June and July because snow conditions and the appearance of crevasses in the route, Definitely a challenge this is not a mountain for beginners because it involves a high degree of technical skills in mountaineering, good physical condition, acclimatization.


For further info contact us: elefrenlp64@gmail.com

Apu Pachatusan Mountain Scrambling

Posted: by EFREN LOPEZ in Labels: ,
0

The Pachatusan mountain has a special meaning within the Andean culture, considered an Apu or sacred mountain venerated in the region of Cusco, where people held up ceremonies, rituals and offerings since Inka`s Time until these days, this mountain is located 30 km east of the city of Cusco, and its summit reaches 4700 meters. but The mountain has 3 different summits of similar altitude formed by sandstone, the weekend we organized a scrambling to this mountain, it took us two days.

the first day by morning we left Cusco, The Scrambling route begins in the village of Huasao located over 3130 mts at 30 km east of the city. the climb goes by the north face of the mountain and it has a distance of 10 km from Huasao village to the main summit, mostly all way up, through a semi desert area covered by Andean grass, and sandstone outcrops, the village of kacllapata is located halfway, the first day we camp before sunset near the top of mountain
the second day by morning we continued and reached the summit of Pachatusan mountain over 4700 mtrs at 11 am after half an hour to enjoy spectacular scenery, we decided to return, this time all way down straight to Huasao village, we arrived there at sunset.
there is also an Inca road that goes from Huasao to the top of the mountain the road is very noticeable wide in some parts of the route.

 This is a relatively easy scrambling it does not requires climbing equipment but you need a good physical condition to climb the 1570 mtrs of altitude and a distance of 20 km round trip preferably during 2 days.

This Scrambling is recommended during the dry season be carefull during the rainy season because there is danger of heavy rain,  fog, unexpected snowfall and lightning.


For further info contact us: elefrenlp64@gmail.com

Qampa Mountain Ice Climbing

Posted: by EFREN LOPEZ in Labels: ,
0

The Qampa mountain is located south of Cusco city at north east area of the massif of Ausangate mountain into the Vilcanota mountain range located at 13 ° 46'33.54 " S 71 ° 10'52 .75 " W.
last weeks of december 2013 at end of mountain season we are part of a three-day mountaineering expedition  with six friends to conquer the mountain summit of Qampa 5500 ms, 18044 ft by North Face route after one day planning trip we realized this expedition 14 15 16 dic 2013.

The first day trip began in Cusco very early in the morning we headed to the town of Pacchanta in Ocongate southeast of Cusco, We arrived about 10 am, and after prepared equipment, horses loaded,  we start the approach with a hike of 3 and a half hours to reach base camp, near Qampa Pass within the Walking circuit around the Auzangate mountain passing by comercocha lake, we arrived to base camp during the afternoon and set tents, for the rest of the day we prepare ice climbing equipment , had dinner and rested early
The second day early in the morning, We left base camp before sunrise at 4am and began the ascent to the summit by the North Face route , after 2 hours crossing steep moraine, we reached glacier when sun rise, from here the route goes traversing areas with moderate slopes with crevasses, rocky walls , penitents , depending on the season appear mixed stripes with loose rock before the summit, it was awesome climbed this parts.
December 15, 2013 at 8 am we reached the summit of Qampa mountain 5500 m  18044 ft. after climbing 4 hours from base camp with very good weather, clear skies , good ice and snow conditions, we  contemplate a breathtaking view of the mountains of the Cordillera Vilcanota around us
after resting 1 hour on summit the return to base camp took about 3 hours because we rapelled the rocky part before the summit, and we had foggy conditions. Once in base camp after lunch we returned to Pacchanta to relax in the hot springs and finally back to Cusco.
The routes on the nort face of Qampa mountain are recommended for acclimatization or for people starting in the world of mountaineering because its moderate degree of difficulty, basic experience required.


For further info contact us: elefrenlp64@gmail.com

Apu Salkantay Mountain Trekking

Posted: by EFREN LOPEZ in Labels: , ,
2

Apu Salkantay mountain is Immerse into the myth of ancient Andean histories, this sacred snow caped mountain (Apu) is worshipped as a deity by Andean people, the name means the wild mountain in Qechua a native Andean language of region. Located 60 km Northwest of Cusco city, into Vilcabamba Mountain Range, its summit reach 6271 m, 20,564 ft. This steep peak has a prominence of 2540 m, 8330 ft, and is the second highest in Cusco and the twelfth in Peru.
The Apu Salkantay  Trekking was consider by National Geographic Adventure Travel Magazine as the 25th best trekking in the world, Is a real challenge for walkers all around the world crossing a pass over 4600 mosl, 15,091ft, descent to mid elevation forest and cover 34 km / 21 miles. In wilderness is a perfect mix of trekking, culture and nature.
The landscape views are amazing, while you climb to the Salkantay pass and descend next to snow capped mountains of Tucarway 5910 m 19,389 ft, and Humantay 5917m 19,412 ft by Andean valleys  to the mid elevation forest with lush vegetation, orchids, vines, bromeliads, etc fauna, as  parrots, hummingbirds, etc. This trekking without doubt is a vivid experience for adventure travelers and recommended by tourist guides as the second best Trekking in Cusco.
The Apu Salkantay trekking course usually takes 5 days including the visit to Machupicchu.
To access the trail take 3 hours, from Cusco follow the road to Abancay until pass Limatambo village then take the dusty road to Mollepata and continue until  Soraypampa 3850 m, 12,631ft  where the trek start, the trekking course surround the South west face of Salkantay mountain then turn to the North until reach Sawayaco playa village 2000 m, 6561 ft the 3th day then the fourth day you should continue by car to Santa Teresa village, then to Hydroelectric power station from this point you can take the train or walk. Usually this touristic Circuit ends the fourth day at Machupicchu village, finally the fifth day you should visit Machupicchu archeological complex and return to Cusco.
You can arrange this trek with a tour agency or by yourself anyway a god physical condition is mandatory for this trek, make sure you are acclimatized to high altitude.
The best season is between April and October dry season and during the rainy season December and march depends of weather conditions, but in general be prepared to deal with cold, humid and hot conditions, during the trekking you can find many campsites and also locals sell food along the trail, make sure to have muleteers for carry your extra packs, and for the visit to Machupicchu you should reserve your entrance Ticket previously.


For further info contact us: elefrenlp64@gmail.com

Apu Picol Mountain Scrambling

Posted: by EFREN LOPEZ in Labels: ,
0


let's start defining what scrambling is, this activity is an off trail trip with the objetive of ascent  a mountain of easy acces through ridges, rocky faces etc. often snow or rock with a non technical summit, it means that it is reached without need of certain climbing equipment.

in some cases hands must be used in the ascent for keep balance. and not to hold the body weight. however  it can mean negotiating lower angle rocks  and crossing streams , dense vengatation etc.

The Apu Picol mountain is located 10 km east of cusco city, the summit reach 4400 mt / 14 ,435 ft considered a sacred shrine into the Inca culture where ancient ceremonies were performed.

the scrambling route to Apu Picol ascent by the west face of mountain, it start near to Corao village, route is easy, good for novice scramblers and consist of a gentle slope cover  by dense vegetation andean grass, with rocky seccions at summit although reach summit is easy, 
during the Rainy season bad weather conditions could be dangerous because enviroment becomes cloudy, mist can disorient scramblers very quickly, rain also become grassland  really slippery. 

 Ussually summit can be reached in 2 hours, the round trip takes about 5 hours. the perfect activity for a half day excurcion.


For further info contact us: elefrenlp64@gmail.com

Apu Ausangate Mountain ice Climbing.

Posted: by EFREN LOPEZ in Labels: , , ,
0

Finally at June a dream come true, when a team of mountain guides and local mountaineers organized a 6 days mountaineering expedition to reach the Apu Ausangate summit at 6384m / 20944 ft. located 100 km south east  from Cusco. as the six people team were already acclimatized over 3500 meters, we decided to take the fastest access. 

First day expedition, We traveled by trucks about 5 hours to Hatun Chilca village. south cusco from there we walked 3 hours north to Andean lodge at Machurajay, we arrived at sunset and spent night there.
The second day we walked 5 hours north-east crossing the steep moraine to set the base camp 1 at 5200 m and prepare ourselves for the next day.
The The third day we tried to  reach Apu Ausangate summit by east face. we left camp 1 at dawn at 3 am, after 2 hours of climb a medium slope ice terrain, we found a 200 m vertical rock and ice wall called "the shield",  an 85 degrees technical slope full of mix parts and loose rock, 2 and a half hours later once on the upper part of the wall is set usually the camp 2, but we decided to continue through a quite long 3 km average snow slope until a big crevasse 120 m before summit, after cross it we continue by 75 degree slope until top of snow peak.
Reaching the summit.

June 12 2011 midday an amazing view wait for us, one remarkably moment into the mountaineers life, the summit of  the highest snow peak on Cusco, the fifth in Peru. We reach the Apu Ausangate summit 6384m / 20944 ft, after 8 hours of hard ice climbing and perfect weather. finally it took 5 hours to climb down to return base camp1. 
Day fourth we return to Andean Lodge at Machurajay for celebration, the fifth day we rested in the lodge and the sixth day we returned to Cusco .
Of course this is not a mountain for begginers, it is recommended have experience traversing glaciers, mix climbs on technical ice walls and an excelent phisical condition.


For further info contact us: elefrenlp64@gmail.com