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Showing posts with label mountaineering. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mountaineering. Show all posts

Veronica Mountain Ice Climbing

Posted: by EFREN LOPEZ in Labels: ,
0

Veronica mountain Apu wacaywillca is located  north west of Cusco city, is the highest mountain into Urbamba range, its summit reach 5911m/19393 ft located at coordinates 13 ° 9'52 .49 "S 72 ° 19'34 .11" O, considered a tropical mountain because is located in the northwest corner of Urubamba mountain range, a natural border that divides the Andean region of the jungle.

The last week of May I participated of a mountaineering expedition to reach the summit of Veronica mountain, by the south east route. thanks to Nate Heald invitation  and Sky High Expeditions. Among objectives of expedition were to reach mountain summit with the first woman and the first Brazilian mountaineer, expedition was planned for 4 days with 8 people including experienced mountaineers and guides.

The first day expedition early in the morning we headed north to Malaga pass over 4300 m, once there we got ready and the team began the approach walking west about 4 hrs to base camp over 4600 mtrs there we set camp and took the rest of the day to acclimatize and rest.

The Second day in the morning we continued towards the advanced camp over 4900 m 1 hour walk, but when we reached it and set tents, 4 people of the expedition did not feel good because altitude so they decided to return to base camp. e continued, it took a couple of hours more to set a rope at the start of the route then we returned to the advanced camp.
 with only 4 of us, we decided to continue.  Nate leaders of expedition, Waldemar a renowned Brazilian mountaineer, me and Macario. we sleep the rest of the night and left the advanced camp at 12 30 pm in total darkness. Definitely this is a technical mountain so we climbed to alpine style because the speed and the time it takes to reach the top and return.
Third day at dawn climbing continued by a mixed part (rock and ice) of approx 40 ms then a long gutter of 50 degree tilt and 300 m  direct to south ridge, about 5 am,  on the the ridge the sun rose, the average slope of walls varies between about 65 and 75 degrees with some technical steps on crevasses covered with soft snow in the last 3 hours of climbing.

May 29, 2014 at 8 30 am, after 8 hours climbing we reached the top of the Veronica mountain Apu Wacaywilca the highest mountain of Urubamba range, an spectacular scenery of the mountain ranges that surround this peak as Vilcanota Urumanba and vilcabamba ranges, an amazing landscape. After rest 1 hour on the summit we went back descending by same ridge with  loose snow due to sun, which exposed the crevasses a little more then we unclimbed the 300 m gutter and rappel the mix part we return to advanced camp about 3 30 pm and decided to descend to base camp on the same day.

the fourth day after breakfast our team got ready and walked about 3 hours return to Tastayoc for take the  transportation back to Cusco.
Important to note that the best months to climb Veronica mountain are May, June and July because snow conditions and the appearance of crevasses in the route, Definitely a challenge this is not a mountain for beginners because it involves a high degree of technical skills in mountaineering, good physical condition, acclimatization.


For further info contact us: elefrenlp64@gmail.com

Qampa Mountain Ice Climbing

Posted: by EFREN LOPEZ in Labels: ,
0

The Qampa mountain is located south of Cusco city at north east area of the massif of Ausangate mountain into the Vilcanota mountain range located at 13 ° 46'33.54 " S 71 ° 10'52 .75 " W.
last weeks of december 2013 at end of mountain season we are part of a three-day mountaineering expedition  with six friends to conquer the mountain summit of Qampa 5500 ms, 18044 ft by North Face route after one day planning trip we realized this expedition 14 15 16 dic 2013.

The first day trip began in Cusco very early in the morning we headed to the town of Pacchanta in Ocongate southeast of Cusco, We arrived about 10 am, and after prepared equipment, horses loaded,  we start the approach with a hike of 3 and a half hours to reach base camp, near Qampa Pass within the Walking circuit around the Auzangate mountain passing by comercocha lake, we arrived to base camp during the afternoon and set tents, for the rest of the day we prepare ice climbing equipment , had dinner and rested early
The second day early in the morning, We left base camp before sunrise at 4am and began the ascent to the summit by the North Face route , after 2 hours crossing steep moraine, we reached glacier when sun rise, from here the route goes traversing areas with moderate slopes with crevasses, rocky walls , penitents , depending on the season appear mixed stripes with loose rock before the summit, it was awesome climbed this parts.
December 15, 2013 at 8 am we reached the summit of Qampa mountain 5500 m  18044 ft. after climbing 4 hours from base camp with very good weather, clear skies , good ice and snow conditions, we  contemplate a breathtaking view of the mountains of the Cordillera Vilcanota around us
after resting 1 hour on summit the return to base camp took about 3 hours because we rapelled the rocky part before the summit, and we had foggy conditions. Once in base camp after lunch we returned to Pacchanta to relax in the hot springs and finally back to Cusco.
The routes on the nort face of Qampa mountain are recommended for acclimatization or for people starting in the world of mountaineering because its moderate degree of difficulty, basic experience required.


For further info contact us: elefrenlp64@gmail.com

Apu Ausangate Mountain ice Climbing.

Posted: by EFREN LOPEZ in Labels: , , ,
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Finally at June a dream come true, when a team of mountain guides and local mountaineers organized a 6 days mountaineering expedition to reach the Apu Ausangate summit at 6384m / 20944 ft. located 100 km south east  from Cusco. as the six people team were already acclimatized over 3500 meters, we decided to take the fastest access. 

First day expedition, We traveled by trucks about 5 hours to Hatun Chilca village. south cusco from there we walked 3 hours north to Andean lodge at Machurajay, we arrived at sunset and spent night there.
The second day we walked 5 hours north-east crossing the steep moraine to set the base camp 1 at 5200 m and prepare ourselves for the next day.
The The third day we tried to  reach Apu Ausangate summit by east face. we left camp 1 at dawn at 3 am, after 2 hours of climb a medium slope ice terrain, we found a 200 m vertical rock and ice wall called "the shield",  an 85 degrees technical slope full of mix parts and loose rock, 2 and a half hours later once on the upper part of the wall is set usually the camp 2, but we decided to continue through a quite long 3 km average snow slope until a big crevasse 120 m before summit, after cross it we continue by 75 degree slope until top of snow peak.
Reaching the summit.

June 12 2011 midday an amazing view wait for us, one remarkably moment into the mountaineers life, the summit of  the highest snow peak on Cusco, the fifth in Peru. We reach the Apu Ausangate summit 6384m / 20944 ft, after 8 hours of hard ice climbing and perfect weather. finally it took 5 hours to climb down to return base camp1. 
Day fourth we return to Andean Lodge at Machurajay for celebration, the fifth day we rested in the lodge and the sixth day we returned to Cusco .
Of course this is not a mountain for begginers, it is recommended have experience traversing glaciers, mix climbs on technical ice walls and an excelent phisical condition.


For further info contact us: elefrenlp64@gmail.com

climb travel to peru

Posted: by EFREN LOPEZ in Labels: , , , , , ,
4

The Cusco region is located in the southern part of Perú, into the heart of Andes Mountain range at South America. The area has three mountain ranges called Vilcanota Urubamba and Vilcabamba that cross the entire region, it means the perfect place for the practice of outdoor activities as mountaineering.
"Climbing in Cusco¨The Proyect born in 2005, with great interest and enthusiasm in adventure, to search for data and create a register with the best places for explore, the promotion and difution of mountain activities as rock and ice climbing, climb wall, bouldering, canyoning, rappell or abseil. with a constant register of maps locations of rock climbing cusco routes and around the area. we also organize excurtions , tours, expedition and travels, we invite you to participate and enjoy our new alternatives in tourism
Enjoy these amazing places thanks for your visit .


Information: elefrenlp64@gmail.com with Efren.