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Apu Ausangate Mountain ice Climbing.

Posted: by EFREN LOPEZ in Labels: , , ,

Finally at June a dream come true, when a team of mountain guides and local mountaineers organized a 6 days mountaineering expedition to reach the Apu Ausangate summit at 6384m / 20944 ft. located 100 km south east  from Cusco. as the six people team were already acclimatized over 3500 meters, we decided to take the fastest access. 

First day expedition, We traveled by trucks about 5 hours to Hatun Chilca village. south cusco from there we walked 3 hours north to Andean lodge at Machurajay, we arrived at sunset and spent night there.
The second day we walked 5 hours north-east crossing the steep moraine to set the base camp 1 at 5200 m and prepare ourselves for the next day.
The The third day we tried to  reach Apu Ausangate summit by east face. we left camp 1 at dawn at 3 am, after 2 hours of climb a medium slope ice terrain, we found a 200 m vertical rock and ice wall called "the shield",  an 85 degrees technical slope full of mix parts and loose rock, 2 and a half hours later once on the upper part of the wall is set usually the camp 2, but we decided to continue through a quite long 3 km average snow slope until a big crevasse 120 m before summit, after cross it we continue by 75 degree slope until top of snow peak.
Reaching the summit.

June 12 2011 midday an amazing view wait for us, one remarkably moment into the mountaineers life, the summit of  the highest snow peak on Cusco, the fifth in Peru. We reach the Apu Ausangate summit 6384m / 20944 ft, after 8 hours of hard ice climbing and perfect weather. finally it took 5 hours to climb down to return base camp1. 
Day fourth we return to Andean Lodge at Machurajay for celebration, the fifth day we rested in the lodge and the sixth day we returned to Cusco .
Of course this is not a mountain for begginers, it is recommended have experience traversing glaciers, mix climbs on technical ice walls and an excelent phisical condition.

For further info contact us: elefrenlp64@gmail.com