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Qampa Mountain Ice Climbing

Posted: by EFREN LOPEZ in Labels: ,

The Qampa mountain is located south of Cusco city at north east area of the massif of Ausangate mountain into the Vilcanota mountain range located at 13 ° 46'33.54 " S 71 ° 10'52 .75 " W.
last weeks of december 2013 at end of mountain season we are part of a three-day mountaineering expedition  with six friends to conquer the mountain summit of Qampa 5500 ms, 18044 ft by North Face route after one day planning trip we realized this expedition 14 15 16 dic 2013.

The first day trip began in Cusco very early in the morning we headed to the town of Pacchanta in Ocongate southeast of Cusco, We arrived about 10 am, and after prepared equipment, horses loaded,  we start the approach with a hike of 3 and a half hours to reach base camp, near Qampa Pass within the Walking circuit around the Auzangate mountain passing by comercocha lake, we arrived to base camp during the afternoon and set tents, for the rest of the day we prepare ice climbing equipment , had dinner and rested early
The second day early in the morning, We left base camp before sunrise at 4am and began the ascent to the summit by the North Face route , after 2 hours crossing steep moraine, we reached glacier when sun rise, from here the route goes traversing areas with moderate slopes with crevasses, rocky walls , penitents , depending on the season appear mixed stripes with loose rock before the summit, it was awesome climbed this parts.
December 15, 2013 at 8 am we reached the summit of Qampa mountain 5500 m  18044 ft. after climbing 4 hours from base camp with very good weather, clear skies , good ice and snow conditions, we  contemplate a breathtaking view of the mountains of the Cordillera Vilcanota around us
after resting 1 hour on summit the return to base camp took about 3 hours because we rapelled the rocky part before the summit, and we had foggy conditions. Once in base camp after lunch we returned to Pacchanta to relax in the hot springs and finally back to Cusco.
The routes on the nort face of Qampa mountain are recommended for acclimatization or for people starting in the world of mountaineering because its moderate degree of difficulty, basic experience required.

For further info contact us: elefrenlp64@gmail.com